Get Your Trifle On!

Trifle.  Or as I like to call it, "anything-goes-bowl". Originally from England, a trifle is comprised of cake doused with alcohol and layered with custard/cream and either jam/fruit.  Quite popular around holiday time.  Simple to make,  it's the presentation that is show-stopping.  It is served in deep bowls (preferably flat sided) or tall glass goblets for individual servings.  The different colors and textures are shown off in the multiple layers.   

The cake layer can be ladyfingers, Genoise, pound cake, macaroons, sponge cake.  Ideally, the cake should be stale, as it will hold the alcohol better than a fresh cake.  The cream layer can be custard, pudding or pastry cream.  And, as if that isn't enough for ya--it's topped off with a nice layer of whipped cream.  

I made this sans-alcohol (gasp!)--I know.  I have been looking for an occasion to make Flo Braker's elegant "Silver Cake with Poppy Seeds".  This is from her great book, Baking for All Occasions. As she says, "this is the ultimate white cake".  Right-O, Flo. This buttermilk-based "Silver Cake" is one of the most delicious, light and elegant cakes I have made.  The poppy seeds could be omitted, if you choose, for a "pristine" white cake.  Flo never disappoints. Truly.  Her instructions and measurements are *so* precise and accurate,  I can always depend on an amazing result.  This cake is one to be made again.

If I wasn't already egg-nogged out, I might have opted for an egg-nog custard, but thought that would be a gross injustice to  Flo's cake.  For the trifle custard, I chose a recipe from James Beard--one of my true culinary inspirations. His note about the custard sums it up perfectly: "The French may call it creme anglaise, but this egg-yolk-thickened dessert sauce was known as "boiled custard" to early American cooks, although boiled it is certainly not and never should be."  Amen.

I chose to layer with fresh fruit, as I always have an abundance in the fridge.  But the possibilities for this anything-goes-dessert are really endless.  Note: this is not a dessert for two.  Happy New Year, everyone. 

Make the cake


Silver Cake with Poppy Seeds
from Flo Braker's Baking for All Occasions
Yields One 13x9 Cake


2 1/4 cups Cake Flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup whole milk
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
1/2 cup well-shaken buttermilk
1/4 cup poppy seeds
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
7 oz unsalted butter, at room temp
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
4 large egg whites (about 1/2 cup-4oz) , lightly beaten


1.  Preheat oven to 350F. Lightly coat 13x9x2 pan with nonstick spray, then flour it.  Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper.  Have all ingredients at room temp.


2.  Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt onto a sheet of wax paper; set aside.  In a small saucepan, heat the milk with the vanilla bean until lukewarm.  Set aside to cool to room temperature, about 5 min.  Remove the vanilla bean from the milk, scrape the seeds from the bean into the milk with a small paring knife, and discard pod.  Pour the vanilla milk into a small bowl, add the buttermilk, poppy seeds, and lemon juice, and stir to blend;  set aside.


3.  In bowl of standing mixer with paddle attachment, beat the butter on med speed until it is lighter in color, clings to the sides of the bowl, and has a satiny appearance, about 30-45 seconds.   Add the sugar in a steady stream, then stop the mixer and scrape down sides of bowl.  Continue to beat on med speed until light and fluffy, 3-4 min.


4.  With the mixer on medium speed, add egg whites, 1-2 tbsp at a time, beating after each addition until incorporated before adding more.  Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl at least once or twice until all the whites have been added and mixture is fluffy.


5.  On lowest speed, add the flour mixture in 3 additions alternately with the buttermilk mixture in two additions, beginning and ending with flour mixture and mixing until incorporated.  Stop the mixer after each addition and scrape down sides.


6.  Pour the batter into the pan.  Spread the batter from center outward creating a slightly raised ridge around outside of rim.


7.  Bake cake about 38-42 minutes, until it springs back slightly when lightly touched in center or wooden toothpick comes out clean and sides are beginning to come away from pan.  Transfer to wire rack and let cool in the pan for 10 minutes. 


8.  Invert a large wire rack on top of cake, invert cake onto it and carefully lift off the pan. Slowly peel off parchment paper, turn it over so sticky side faces up and reposition on top of cake.  Invert another cake rack on top and invert cake so it is right side up and remove original rack.  Cool completely.


Use right away or wrap in plastic wrap and store at room temp for up to 1 day.  For longer storage, overwrap with aluminum foil and freeze for up to 2 weeks. To thaw, remove from foil and leave at room temp for 2-3 hrs.


Make the Custard


Creme Anglaise (Custard Sauce)
from James Beard, Theory and Practice of Good Cooking
Makes 5 cups custard sauce


8 egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar
pinch of salt
2 cups milk
2 cup heavy cream
4 teaspoons vanilla extract


1.  Combine the egg yolks, sugar, and salt in a large heavy bottomed saucepan.  Beat with wire whisk or electric hand mixer until well mixed, pale and creamy.


2.  Put the milk and the cream in another heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat them just to boiling point..until tiny bubbles appear around edge...stirring occasionally to make sure the liquid does not scorch bottom of pan.    


3. Slowly pour the hot liquid into the egg mixture in a thin stream, stirring constantly. Put the saucepan over med-low heat.   Cook, stirring constantly with an electric beater turned on low or with a wooden spatula all over the bottom and sides of pan, until custard thickens to a light, creamy consistency that just coats the spatula.  The custard must not overheat or approach the simmering point, or it will curdle and there is no way to save a curdled custard.  Timing cannot be estimated; it may take 20-25 min.


4.  Remove the custard from heat.  Stir in vanilla extract.  Pour in cold bowl and cool.  When cool, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Make the Whipped Cream


1 quart heavy cream
1/4 cup sugar

Beat the cream with electric mixer on high speed for 2 minutes.  Add the sugar and beat until the mixture is thick and forms soft peaks, 1 to 2 minutes.  Set aside.


Assemble Trifle


Thankfully, there are really no rules for trifle assembly!  I cut the cake into cubes and started with a cake layer, then added all the custard, topped with strawberries/blackberries, then added more cake and finally the whipped topping.